The United Hard-Cider States of America

Yes, its true, America makes cider and I have one of the best jobs in the world. I'm heading State-cide (ho ho!) on a trip to have a good look a whats happening up in the north east region of the US.
 
Back in June, the morning after my wedding, the very trustworthy and American sounding treasurer of the formidable Great Lakes Cider & Perry Association USA, mister Mike Beck, got in touch to invite my sore-headed self and iPhone-drowning author Pete Brown on a whirlwind 8 day trip to document the cider scene in the area at the top of the States between New England and the Great Lakes. It felt like the most unexpected of wedding gifts, something I wouldn't have dared hope for and was about the only thing that could actually make that day better. That and some pain killers.

We'll be kicking off our trip the day after my 36th birthday in September and whilst the final details are being sorted, its shaping up something like this so far.. 

Stage 1: A roadtrip around the beautiful New England area to get the low down on cidermaking there. We start by visiting Steve Wood of Farnham Hill Cider (NH) and then head out to meet a few more likely types including Eden Ice Cider (VT), Slyboro Ciderhouse (NY), West County Cider (MA), and Green Mountain/Woodchuck Cider (VT.)

Stage 2: We're then flying over to Detroit to meet up with Mike Beck and attend the Great Lakes Cider Festival at Uncle Johns Cider Mill in Michigan. (I know nothing about Michigan other than it gets very cold up there in winter, there is wildlife that can eat you and its full of interesting settler type history.) The following day we head right up to the very northern part of Michigan for a very special cider dinner hosted by Tandem Ciders. Then south to Muskegon on the western part of the Lower Peninsula to tour Vandermill Cider with the whole trip culminating in a ferry trip over a massive lake to visit  AEppelTreow cider in Wisconsin (another state I also know less than nothing about) to finally arrive back to earth with a slump as we crawl vaguely towards Chicago to find an airport home.

The more of this cider travel we do, the more often we meet people that assume their own culture is the only that makes cider, or the original one anyway (with the notable exception of Americans so far.) I first noticed it a few years ago when I was chatting with a French barman in Brittany and he was genuinely surprised to hear that we make cider here in UK. After some convincing he simply shrugged nonchalantly muttering something about everyone wanting to be French 'zeezse days' which made me laugh out loud in his face. In a Monty Python moment, being typically French, he became the stereotype we British seem to grow up with that all Frenchman have a very French Franco-centric outlook on rest of the world (Is it pride? Being British, its hard to tell -we're crap at it) I then realised I am as guilty at being Anglo-centric about the things I assume to be British, as I'm sure many cultures are. Its good to be reminded that the assumptions we hold onto (even without realizing it) can be wrong and nothing points that out quicker than traveling. Even those amongst us that realise other cultures make decent cider, are convinced that they can't possibly make it as well as us. When I told a friend 'I'm off to the States to have a look at their cider scene' his (standard UK) response was "America? What the **** do they know about cider..?" to which I replied as honestly as I could "I dunno, but there are an awful lot of them doing it and I think they've been making it for ages, so I intend to find out. I'll let you know." 

If there is one thing I've come to realise before I've even checked in online, it's this: I dare anyone, here in UK or anywhere else, to say that they don't take cider seriously in the States, they really do. They may not have the ancient heritage of other cultures or billions of the familiar cider apples or a large cider drinking market (yet), but they have passion and that counts for more than the rest put together. Indeed, those (our) traditions can can be limiting and not having them can make progress more forthcoming. Have you seen their cider map, its somewhat convincing... that's alot of cidermakers and the fact they have kindly offered to fly us over, put us up, feed us and show us around indicates a high level of commitment and seriousness to me! Much of the original cidermaking traditions and skills the US had, which came over with settlers, may have been lost during the prohibition era, not something we've ever had to experience thankfully. I envisage similar things to what happened in US craft beer movement and look what the Americans did for that... these are exciting times my friends.

The trip will give us both a chance to collect good material which I hope to share here upon my return. Shooting from the hip as you travel is something I'm used to doing to a certain extent, but this is a massive trip with a huge amount of personal interest for me. We have been invited to the 2011 Great Lakes Cider & Perry Festival right in the middle of it and I hope my trigger finger can handle it. My liver might be a little more swollen by the time I arrive home but I should hopefully have enough recuperation time before another visit to Brittany, meeting and photographing some of their cideries, 10 days or so later.

I have also been asked to represent the Bath & West Show Orchards & Cider committee as an ambassador to encourage some entries for the 2012 show from these US producers. The international section of the B&W show raises an interesting predicament. We had something like a whopping 3 entries this year (2 from Spain and one from France) which makes the judging somewhat less stimulating. As a section, it would have a wider benefit everyone involved in cidermaking as more entries would allow artisan producers from overseas to push the boundaries of what we think cider is and can be here in UK. It would be great to see other styles from another countries enter the scene, spread their word and maybe win some an awards. Competition is the life blood of success and has been so at the Royal Bath and West Show since 1777. For the simple act of sending over a 750ml bottle of cider (for a measly $32) the winners receive a certificate boasting of their success at one of the oldest and most respected cider competitions in the world. As well as it looking great hanging in the cider shed, it'll really raise awareness here in UK and Europe that the US cider scene has not only arrived, but is thriving.

The main aim of the trip is for us to gain a greater understanding of what cider means in USA. I anticipate its a culture that'll be familiar and new at the same time. It'll give me the chance to collect lots of photography, the very best of which I hope to share with you all upon my return. It'll give both of us a chance to report back to Europe (Hörst du mir zu? ¿Estás escuchando? Etes-vous écouter? Hmmmmm?) on whats happening there and our common future. I really think we're going to see US Hard Cider here in UK over the coming years (they call it hard - we call it cider.)

I caught up with Steve Wood briefly when he was over here at the end of March visiting Julian Temperley from Burrow Hill cider (some snaps below.)

Cider, Cider, where do I put thee?

One of the ubiquitous dilemmas facing people all round the world is where to put the cider. I'm not talking about the fridge or the pantry but about its 'positioning' (if that is the correct marketing jargon?) Its not beer, its not wine, its somewhere in between... somewhere... isn't it? Well, technically, it is a wine because its fermented juice from a fruit, but its not 'Wine' as the world knows it. I think here in UK and certainly in some other European countries with a strong cider culture, there is a decent enough awareness and understanding of what it is/where it comes from etc, but online, in the collossul hard drives of the US that host whatever-the-ginormous-proportion-of-yottabytes-that-host-the-internet-globally are, and whichever-dorky-office-based-list-compiler-type-personage decides who gets classified as what and goes where-  its a long way from Merry England where we know exactly what it is.

Most people seem to see it as an alternative to beer, in culturally here in UK I suppose it is. I asked winematcher Fiona Beckett what her thoughts were on the subject and they were pretty much that.

Even shopkeepers ponder over wether to put it in the beer section or the wine section? In a discussion with Steve Wood from Farnum Hill Cider in USA he relayed this very problem to me in no uncertain terms and reckons its his single biggest challenge. It is at this point we in UK should thank our industrial cidermakers, for they pay for the introduction, education and current level of public awareness about what cider is and where it comes from (regardless of their quality.) They have a product to sell and they go about their business and marketing doing just that. In an emerging market, alot of money goes on educating the masses. Advertising is expensive and artisan cidermakers certainly can't afford anything huge, like TV. Thankfully, there comes a point when that same market, eventually reaches a point where it educates itself as it becomes more dynamic and the pendulum starts to swing the other way, the newly educated drinkers seeking out something better and more interesting.

Things are a little clearer here in UK, supermarkets tend to have a mini cider section which, I think, is for the best. I can't say that I'm suprised that Wikio (who rank and sort all things blog) don't have a cider section, but this site is listed under the 'Beer and Wine' blogs and yet its still neither. Ironically, the only real public body that 'supports' real cider here in UK is the cider and perry wing of CAMRA whose heart beats for beer (as it should). Unfortunately for them, knowing alot about one doesn't make you an expert in the other and I personally don't always see eye-to-eye with CAMRA about cider (or beer) for that matter. Curiously, as a non-writer who works in cider, I am fortunate enough to be allowed to join the British Guild of Beer Writers, even if I am alone and on the fringes, I am welcomed as an orphan. Maybe we all look at cider as a cherished relative with no where to go and with whom we like to catch up with occasionally. Globally, its not quite well known enough as an individual product to merit its own 'section.' And this is the root of its identity crisis.

Can you see a pattern forming yet? Cidermakers and drinkers are generally a little more relaxed about banging the drum than our vinous cousins or malty associates, maybe thats why cider is still a little 'off radar' in the context of the wider world. (Maybe it likes it there and that is part of what makes cider as charming as it is?)

Beer and cider often get banded together (something I don't mind) and if it were a case of taking sides amongst the ever growing disquiet between beer and wine, I think the majority of beer drinkers here in UK would band with cider which I find really interesting (as I've said its technically much more akin to wine) but socially (in pints, at pubs and festivals) its more akin to beer. This is the most perfect example of where it sits and why people struggle to define it, not that I mind.

I would love to give this more thought and discussion but alas, I am out of time again.

Here is a photo of my first ever batch of homemade cider (2005) to stare at whilst you contemplate this global dilemma. Cheers!

The importance of being Ernst. Or William. Or James. Or Steven. or YOURSELF!

“There is only you and your camera. The limitations in your photography are in yourself, for what we see is what we are.” 

Ernst Haas.

 

Thanks Ernst, that sums it up perfectly. As so many people these days want, or need, to take their own photographs I want to raise the issue of thinking more about how we both choose to do it and can explore our ability to do it. The blog so far has been very cider heavy and photography light, so today is the day the pendulum swings the other way.

 

I want to move away from my images, and cider, to bring your attention to some ideas and people that may help you think differently about photography.

 

For me, personal projects are where its at when you want to explore something and in my case I chose Cider. Any (unpaid) subject that you feel passionately about is the place to start. It should something you can go back to easily over and over again. If its likely to become a large part of you life, take the time to explain your ideas to the Mrs or any other loved ones you are likely to rely on and spend less time with. Having them on board will help you give the project the longevity it needs to become bigger than your everyday pics. The beauty of having an ongoing personal project is that it allows you time for reflection and is free from the constraints of commercial agenda. Money and art can make treacherous partners, so the opportunity to explore one free from the other is really quite liberating.

 

It sounds really obvious to say but how you choose to photograph something is entirely up to you. Its starts with you and ends with you deciding when you should to trigger the shutter. Whatever goes on inbetween those two points is your method and that is your opportunity to be unique. Whatever you point your camera at, you are faced with a choice of deciding how to capture it, whether to comment on it, how you feel about it, how others feel about it. You don't want it to be too obvious, and yet, you don't want to be different for the sake of it.

William Eggleston was reputed to only ever shoot one frame of his subject, then move on - the idea of which really appeals to me. I love his photos, they have a freedom about them yet they contain a dramatic narrative too. That method makes you feel decisive and free at the same time which can be a difficult combination to achieve as a photographer. Its like a formula for being unformulaic allowing your instincts to play a greater part before your brain gets the chance to cock it up. He has a very democratic approach where anything can be as important as everything else. Its more arts based and is something I aspire to be more like, certainly here in my personal work. 

 

Conversely the quintessentially English photographer James Ravilious revisted many places and people time and time again to get right under the skin of his projects. This approach allows you to build important relationships and familiarise yourself with the landscape and subject matter in a completely different way. It will either drive you mad or allow you to fall in love with your subject. W.Eugene Smith, often cited by photographers and many others as possibly the greatest photographer who ever lived, worked in the same way.

 

Another great way of looking at the different aspects of how to approach your photography is discussed here by the legendary Stephen Shore.

 

I have transcribed the following from the American Beauty video of him I found online where he describes the decisions he makes on the kit he decides to use (a chuffing massive 10"x8" plate camera) his 'visual thinking', his training and method. I love what he says and how he says it, its definitely large-format photography thinking.

'I think a work can hold alot of different things at once; explore the medium, explore perception and explore other psychological levels. In a simple physical way, the camera's recording with extraordinary detail and that allows me to see things of interest but not make them the whole point of the picture. For a person to see a scene with as much detail as this camera can record, might take several minutes but you can have the experience of taking it all in in a few seconds in a picture, so there is a sense of time being compressed in it. I've discovered that this camera was the technical means in photography of communicating what the world looks like in a state of heightened awareness. And its that awareness of really looking at the everday world with clear and focused attention that I'm interested in. There is a kind of visual thinking that goes on that is without words and not just words spoken but not even words in ones head. Most people think thinking has to do with words, this little voice in your head, but there is a visual thinking that doesn't have that. I spent maybe 10 years on a kind of formal exploration of photography and what happened is that I don't think about that anymore. I don't forget all that other stuff, but I don't think about it. You walk down the street when you were 11 months old , figuring out how to walk was the main focus of your attention. And you now you walk and you do it fine, you don't have to think about it, now you can think about where you are going. And I think thats sort of a similar thing, I'm thinking about where I am going with the picture.'

So there you have it. Think wordlessly.  Watch, be attentive to the world and its ways. Notice the things everyone else misses or doesn't think about. Shoot what you want to remember. Our search for the new is the most exciting bit. Whats next? What can I discover? Where can I go, what can I see?

 

 

International Craft Cider Festival, Wales, 12th-14th August 2011

So you think you know about cider? Do you really? When was the last time you got the chance to try cider from France, Germany, Spain, England and Wales (and maybe Ireland) side by side all at the same time whilst listening to loads of bands and hanging out with lots of people that enjoy, and make, cider too??

Hmmmmmmm? Thought so. Time to open your taste buds up to something different..

In more seriousness, this is just a quick plug for a great event that I'll be attending and showing some photography at in about a months time. Set in deepest Welsh countryside, its more than just your regular cider festival, this is a chance to try some real cider from other real cider cultures all over the Europe. Esteemed writer and author Pete Brown and I will be doing a joint piece at about 5pm on Saturday 13th loosely titled 'The Secret Stories of Cider' where Pete will be reading from some of his newest notes and observations on cider whilst I will be slide-showing a handpicked selection of images to accompany his words. For those of you that don't know Petes work, do yourselves a favour and pick up a copy of one of his books- they're brilliant and a must for anyone that likes beer (everyone?)  He's been described as 'the beer drinkers Bill Bryson'- his tales recalling the characteristic, inquisitive, often harebrained and occasionally hapless adventures he undertakes into the beer world (in this case cider world.) Riddled with his trademark humour, cynical observations with a healthy dose of self-deprecation, its very English, slightly familiar, fascinating, hilarious and informative all at the same time.

Sounds like the only excuse you need to get a pint or three ready, find a comfy seat and listen up for 45 minutes of cider love (certainly more than any excuse I would need anyway.)

More details can be found at http://www.internationalciderfestival.com/ -get your tickets while you can, come along and say hi!

Bridge Farm Cider

Bridge Farm is one of those cidermakers you hear about long before you ever find or meet or taste anything to do it with it. That in itself is a step closer to legend status in my opinion and is always a good sign; word of mouth being the best way to find what you want and I tend to take the lack of discovery as a sign that someone there cares more about their product than the advertising and marketing.

Nigel Stewart makes traditional Somerset cider at East Chinnock near Yeovil in Somerset (good soil there for apples.) He’s quite an unassuming man with a fine militaryesque moustache and on the few occasions I've had his ear, he generally has informed and relevant to say about whatever the topic of conversation is at that moment.

Doing justice to something you are passionate about gets easier when you experience it firsthand and recognise the difference between an imposter and the genuine article. Bridge Farm has all the right ingredients for a decent cidermaker and is as genuine as they get: it feels right when you're there. The press rails laid into the floor, the detritus of production, the wooden barrels, the scent of the dark shed, the lush long grass orchards, the mix of fruit... these are all things that inspire you as a photographer and I've learnt to latch on to them as a source of that feeling, you can only try and capture it...

Anyway, he's supposed to have a website but I couldn't get it up (oo er) so am posting the important stuff here should you need it. Go along and say hi and buys lots, its lovely.

Bridge Farm Cider, Bridge Farm, East Chinnock, Nr Yeovil BA22 9EA

Tel: 01935 862387

email: bridgefarmcider@tiscali.co.uk

Cider ramblings

Apologies for my slackness of late, my posting frequency has been more infrequent than it should be, it may have something to do with getting married and organising the wedding ourselves, followed by a fantastic honeymoon in Sicily (the apples are a bit rubbish there, but luckily they are about the only thing that was) and on top of that, being up to my nuts in work.

Seeing how the Sicilians seem to try and eat anything, it got me wondering if anyone Italians make any cider and apparently (and unsuprisingly) they do in a tiny corner of Italy known as Val D'Aosta. The town of Gressan (nestled in the foothills of the Alps between France and Switzerland) has an Apple Festival (second Sunday of the month), featuring the local cider and a vast assortment of apple desserts. It's a real personal point of interest how many cultures do cider, particularly if the growing conditions for apples are right. Surely it must be a case of, if they can grow apples they make cider or something similar? Someone must have a map of both hemispheres that highlights an apple growing band showing its northern and southern boarders? (If not, why not?) The US has a burgeoning interest in real cider, something I really hope to explore in the coming months. (Check out this nice little map of Dave White from Old Time Cider in US. It'll give you a good idea of whats going to start appearing in our shops over the coming years I suspect!) The Chinese are great drinkers, they have an old culture and alot of wisdom so surely they must make some kind of cider culture? And Russia. And India. And Kazakhstan to pluck a few more out of the air? Dessert apples are though to originate in Kazahkstan and our cider apples are assumed a result of hybridization between them and our native crab apples...so surely Borats ancestors must have dabbled in it? (which could explain alot.) I know Japan as a few cidermakers (they turned to apples amongst other things in WWII when rice was rationed.) Argentina, South Africa, Australia and NZ all make wine and cider and they are all on a similar latitude to ours. Pray tell - where is the most far flung place we can find native cider?

Incidentally, I read a fantastic book whilst on holiday called 'The Wilding' by Maria McCann (you may have heard of it) and I tell you this because the backdrop to the story is cidermaking of 1670's right here in Somerset. Its really well written, wonderfully descriptive and is a proper story. It has cidermaking info to hook a ciderlover in and enough plot, mystery and sauce to keep you there -I defy any of you to tell me its not enjoyable!


Anyway - here are some random pics to accompany your thoughts, I promise to resume normal duties with something more interesting, more photographical and more cohesive soon!

The Royal Bath & West; the greatest (cider) show on earth!

If you're luck enough grow up in the countryside you might relate to the joy and nostalgia of a visit to an agricultural show. For many they are a part of life, especially if if your not from a farming background in which case they tend to hold a little more wonder and a chance to experience the best of the best agriculturally. On half terms and holidays, the Royal Bath & West Show was about being amazed with the things I saw. What always surprised me, was the size of the bollocks on the bulls- a fascination that still prevails today. It still makes me chuckle and I'm still impressed if a little jealous. The other thing that attracted me back year on year was the more-available-than-usual booze. I remember my honorary grandfather supplying me with as many Babycham samples as my friends and I could guzzle on heady half-term afternoons behind a marquee.... Surely, the combination of giant testicles and sweet perry based alcohol is the best kind of marketing there is? The show has a really long relationship with cider, far too long to go into in a single post, but this year gave local historian Alan Stone the chance to launch his most recent publication 'Cider at the Bath & West Show.' For those of you who might be interested, its a modestly priced small booklet outlining the relationship between the show and cider which started in 1777, and yes, cider was an important part of it right from the start (arguably probably more important then than it is now...)

Since 2005 I have been lucky enough to have a presence in the best tent on site - the Cider and Orchards tent. I can found there annually with a small display of my photos and a large amount of business cards blabbering about on about cider and how much I love it. The tent hosts the largest cider competition in the world over 400 entries this year and growing year on year. Its a place where fans and industry can get together over 4 days,  really tune in, bitch about whatever their beef is at that time and catch up.

Amongst the 40,000 visitors to the show, we get a really encouraging mix of patronage, endorsements and guests visiting the Cider and Orchards each year. Recent notables include dignitaries such as The Bishop of Bath & Wells, The Countess of Wessex, Lord (Tom) King, Lord (Julian) Fellows of West Stafford, sleb chefs Hugh Fearnley-Whittenstall & Mark Hix, as well as the cream of the UK cider community that travel across the country to spend the day. There are workshops for grafters, orcharders, worshops for amateur cidermakers who need help with their cider by Andrew Lea. There are free tutored cider tasting sessions twice a day run by the cidermakers. Talks on historical aspects and folklore of cider by the likes of James Crowden. In 2008 we even had 3 inches of water running through the tent like a stream. This year a lifetime achievement award for services to cider was given to Frank Naish, the oldest cidermaker in UK who still makes cider every year and he's 87. Good on you sir! He was invited to guest judge the farmhouse entries (he likes it dry.)


His medal was presented by old friend, neighbour and best-festival-ever legend Michael Eavis. 
We've even got the most successful bar, run by the South West of England Cider Makers Association that sells 60 or more ciders and perries, in half pints, and works so well that manages to earn more and contribute more to the Bath & West fund than any other on site (which goes some way to help when making requests for extra space and improved facilities. Long live the cider bar!)

Rather than typing up the results of the competition, I decided I should photograph the sheets using my images as a backdrop. Yes, its lazier, but its also more a more creative approach. Finding new ways to photograph things is part of the job and its these were taken on my phone (as Chase Jarvis says, the best camera is the one you have with you... nice one Chase)

Welsh Perry & Cider festival

Another bank holiday weekend spent working (such is the plight of the freelancer!) but this particular event was fantastic and it felt more like personal work than work work.

The Welsh Perry & Cider Society festival is an annual event and was held this year at the fantastic Clytha Arms. This year was the 10th year and the first time I had been. I was asked to go along for half a day to provide photographic material for promotion and document aspects of the day; the judging, the camping, the venue, the variety of cider and perries, 80+ in all (one chap reckons he'd tried 62 of them...!) Needless to say, I loved it. I felt very at home there and was made very welcome. I can always judge the quality of a crowd anywhere I go with my camera kit because, in crowded places, I inevitably nudge someone as I turn or twist my way through the mass. The response I get is the meter-stick I use to measure the quality of people at the event. Sometimes I get a bit of agro, even threatened as if I did it to deliberately antagonize people. More generally I get a 'look' and followed by indifference. But at the very best events and certainly in this case, when I turn to apologise, I get a pleasant smile, a gentle wave of the hand and an understanding nod. The atmosphere there was lovely and its somewhere I want to return to with family. ("Pay attention -this is how you do a cider festival kids...")

Anyway - the day had bags of appeal and the natural beauty of both the area and the pub grounds was one of them. The setting is rural Wales, beautiful countryside, gently sloping beer garden, wandering ducks, two bars, a large covered stage area and a giant paddock for camping. Hundreds of people were camping so it had that real festival feel. It was quite a young crowd too, not too beard and sandals, but enough old faces and cider geeks to keep the quality up.

The ciders I had were lovely and so different from the Somerset cider I'm more accustomed too. They use different apples up there, more Herefordshire apples and the flavour did have a distinct difference. One producer told me they use more sharps than up there than we did in Somerset which would partly account for some of the difference. I asked for a few to photograph in the branded glass you were given upon buying tokens. The organiser grabbed a few she knew well and poured away. That being done, I tried them... wow, delicious. The two that stood out for me that day were Hallets and Balegawney medium, both interestingly made by the same man, Andy hallet, who went on to win 9 awards that day. Quite right too!

It made me realise that Welsh cider is something I want to explore. You can taste the passion in the juice and it tastes familiar!