Stop all the clocks, cut off the telephone, prevent the dog from barking with a juicy bone...

This post is a plea for help to save our beloved cider traditions from some fatal legislation that will take traditional cider making to the brink of existance just as it is blossoming again. I know that sounds dramatic but unfortunately its true. I find it difficult to believe that any government (let alone a Conservative/Liberal Democrat one who are 'popular' rurally speaking) would even consider damaging changes like these. It is an ignorant and misinformed policy that will have the consequence (no matter how unintentional) of killing and nailing the coffin firmly shut the majority of farmhouse cidermakers. The 'minimum pricing' idea that the government wants to push through parliament hopes to introduce a minimum price per unit of alcohol in order to curb our worst drinking habits. Whilst its admirable that a government wants to do something about it and I have no doubt that this will have the desired effect, to some degree at least, it's a 'blunt instrument' approach that will smash the livelihood of all small-medium craft drinks producers, particularly Cider due to its natural strength.

There is alot of talk on and around the cider farms here in Somerset and no doubt beyond. Some people think that the European parliament won't allow it through, others think its just a matter of time before it does with both the apple growers the cider producers being brought to their knees. The Conservative party want you to believe this: http://www.conservatives.com/Policy/Where_we_stand/Environment.aspx but unfortunately its utter balls because this piece of legislation totally undermines that.

The underlying the problem is that the government wants to be seen to address is binge drinking, pre-loading and general alcohol abuse. The reality is that binge drinkers, pre-loaders and abusers don't get in a car and drive all the way to a cider farm to buy gallon of cider to share at the weekend. They buy cheap, fizzy, industrial alcohol (the 'ingredients' of which have never been anywhere near an orchard) in supermarkets and off license's in our towns and cities where its much more affordable and convenient.

Artisan cidermakers that have been producing some of the finest cider in the world for generations will have find an increase of cost in their product which will make traditionally produced cider very expensive indeed. To give you some idea of the price hike, a cider maker who sells from the barrel on the farm will see an increase of a gallon from somewhere around the £5 mark to £12, possibly more.

Traditional cider apples have enough fermentable sugar in them to create about 6-6.5% abv. Thats straight up, not messed about with in any way, natural sugars giving natural levels of alcohol using natural yeasts. Its often more- even up to 8% in certain seasons. The worst industrial ciders are made by mixing sugars, flavourings and aromas to create a cider about 4.5% abv, others will use a concentrate produced from their own apples/orchards (made by reducing freshly pressed the juice and storing it until they need it.) However you want to make an industrial beverage, you do it for greater profit margins and with the aid of mass market distribution. Those of us who prefer cider made by smaller producers (who have smaller margins and smaller markets) are automatically penalised purely because its made traditionally and they aren't interfering with the process by watering it down and/or mixing it with cheaper products. Tradition will be soon be punishable by a massive increase in retail price making it one of the most expensive commodities, luxuries even, which people simply won't be able to afford. It's not just a commodity or a luxury, its a goddamn right here in Somerset. So now, by making something purer (and so, so much greener environmentally speaking) you run the risk of making it unaffordable and unsustainable. Its ludicrous. As Roger Wilkins remarked, farmhouse cider is supposed to be cheap because it was always produced by farmers for agricultural labourers for generations- our entire regional economy was based on it at one stage. And besides, people have invested so much recently - do you really want to do that to them? It grows on trees for fuck sake!

This legislation could work well at curbing the affordability of industrially made drinks wether cider, beer or artificially flavoured, brightly coloured alcopops, but whats the point if you are killing the one thing you should be protecting and encouraging- quality and tradition. Cider is on trend at the moment and is so strong, and we don't have to accept this.

I would urge all of you, even if you live in outside UK to make your friends and collegues aware of this because there is still something that can be done about it. If you live in UK, you can let the government know that you want to make artisan cidermakers exempt from the changes by signing a petition here:

     -------->     http://epetitions.direct.gov.uk/petitions/32849

It only takes a few minutes (you have to have a valid e-mail address and be a resident of the UK to be included.) If you don't live in UK, please make any UK nationals you have any influence over aware of the problem and encourage them to do something about it. Petitions need 100,000 signatures to even raise a debate in Parliament so every signature really does count... I don't expect that many responses but its certainly not impossible. The difficultly with asking people to do this is that we rarely do because we're lazy by nature and sadly many people won't realise the significance of the consequences until its added to their pint at the bar, their weekly shopping bill or they're arrive at the cider farm one day only to realise they've gone out of business. Cider was born on a farm and it appears there it shall die too unless we object.

Save our scrumpy peoples.

The stars are not wanted now: put out every one;
Pack up the moon and dismantle the sun;
Pour away the ocean and sweep up the wood.
For nothing now can ever come to any good.

                                                     WH Auden

RE: Cidermaking and (im)patience

******* child locks, I know they're a good idea and all that but I came close to yanking the thing off.  And I was trying to get out of my own damn car! Impatience not being a virtue.

It was Apple Day 2010 (Oct 21st) and I was on my way to the residence of Tom Dunbar, my most patient wife Lisa was driving, alongside her up front was the lovely Beer Widow and I was in the back  with an effervescent Pete Brown. I'd had less than a skinful, but too much too drive, so I was thirsty but still had work to do. There was a full moon (or thereabouts) and as we arrived I had already attempted the door release before I was even aware I wanted to get out. Having realised I just seen the establishing shot, my heart was racing. It was all set, everything felt right, there was no more time to waste, except I was trapped. I kept trying the lever as if it might change its mind but it didn't. We were already late and I had that desperation that rises in you get when you're late for a meeting. Now to make things worse, there was the frikken door lock to deal with and I was still stuck in the car -ARGH.

Anyway, when finally released I grabbed my gear and leaped into position focused entirely on getting it before the moment was lost. Putting up a tripod on uneven ground in the dark is difficult enough anyway, let alone when you're in a desperate hurry. I had just about got it when I saw my next idea.... I grabbed my tripod and so the night continued.

What I am trying to describe is how difficult it is for me to retain a modicum of patience, method and thought when I'm really passionate about something, something like cider anyway. Photography should have an element of spontaneity but it should also be considered and approached thoughtfully. Maybe this phenomenon happens to all of us? After its triggered, something deep in my brain stirs- the reversion starts, my behavior changes and I become childish. Processes become unprocessed, thoughts race excitedly, I tense up and things get a little wilder. I ignore loved ones easier and become more self indulgent and selfish than is acceptable for an adult. Whilst that often means I have more fun, it can mean I miss my target, really irritate the Mrs only to really regret it later. Its got something to do with zoning right in, like finding the heartbeat through your finger when searching for a pulse, you tap in, follow the rhythms and then I seem to get stuck there. Is this obsession?  Only in the best possible way... surely? I never feel that bad about it because it can help my work and my work is important to me but I feel it would be better if I could minimize it somehow.

Anyway - aside from Toms unique crazy French press that he picked up in Brittany, the most important two things I remember from that night are:

1 -The kids. It was so lovely to see them involved, stimulated and made welcome. They were fascinated. I assume they were allowed to stay up late and that always makes you feel special. Cidermaking this way is special and that's why its important to teach the next generation about it early on. They got stuck right in, taking turns twisting the press arm, stuffing apples here and there, excited and bubbly. It felt right. Them being there really added to the atmosphere in the same way a child can re-kindle the spirit of Christmas for an adult. I was proud of their parents who I had never met before. Cider people are good people and these cider parents were good parents.

2- The hosts. Tom is his partner Amanda are lovely hosts and really generous. They laid on food for the assembled crowd (who were pressing as a community for the Kingsbury May Festival where you can find me staggering annually.) They keep pigs and had made some of the most fantastic sausages I have ever eaten, they served bread and cheese as well as Tom's own cider. They put a pot out for contributions (to which I added a healthy paper note) and just wanted everyone to have a good time. And we did! Thanks guys - you know how to roll.